Day 28: Yabberup to Noggerup
We acknowledge the Nyoongar People as the traditional custodians of the land and waters along the Bibbulmun Track
Today’s hike takes us through varied terrain: native forest and pretty farmland, along a dam and a section of railway track, plus another fabulous little National Park with plenty of wildflowers. In fact, this section is one of the best so far for variety.
Picturesque farmland.
Overview Map for Yabberup to Noggerup
It is a very wet day and we hope to arrive at the Mumballup Pub for one of its famous hot meals, but we experience its alternative claim to fame instead.
Almost straight away we are in beaut country, with an understorey of red coral pea (Kennedia coccinea) and yellow Hibbertia. One of the joys of learning about plants and wildlife is that it enriches the experience of being in nature. You see the story the land is telling: is it happy, or under stress? I wish I’d studied more Geology in my youth! If anyone knows of an Australian hiking geologist who produces videos like this (skip to 1:33 for what you see vs the story a geologist sees) while hiking, please let us know and we’ll link where appropriate!
Geoff’s hydrology background also gives him a different and complementary perspective to mine; all we need now is an ornithologist, a historian and a local Nyoongar person in our team, and we would have so much more of a multi-layered experience!
Caladenia magniclavata. I think. The difference between this and C. longiclavata is the relative length of the furry clubs on the sepals and there is a bit of overlap! Taxonomists are grouped into splitters and clumpers; at the moment, the splitters have won the day but, some time down the track, new DNA evidence may see this species clumped together under one name again.
Yes, this is a very manky Redbeak, or Fire Orchid (Pyrorchis nigricans). See the orchid gallery for one I prepared earlier! These usually flower immediately after fire in the black ash beds, and the striated red, white and black flowers resemble meat. As soon as the flowers are fertilised, the entire plant turns black to camouflage it from predation by birds or grazing animals. Isn’t evolution clever?
Approaching Glen Mervyn Dam.
Glen Mervyn Dam
You can see cars and campsites on the other side of the dam; we also pass some near the northern end; campsites are free.
Creamy clematis and red coral pea
Crossing the dam wall. Our new friends are ahead of us.
It has been raining on and off and here we are at the Mumballup (Mumby) Pub, famous for its delicious burgers. Sadly, it is also famous for being closed a lot of the time. Sigh. A crackling hot fire in the hearth, a hot beef pot pie or hamburger or Big Hunk of Meat, a stout for Geoff and a red wine for me… but alas, that is not going to happen.
Instead, on the verandah we tuck into something I try to convince myself is almost as delicious: Geoff’s sourdough crackers, local salami (it is, in fact delicious) and consolation chocolate. Plus tea, of course! While we sit with the rain hammering on the tin roof, half a dozen cars stop, only to leave when they realise the pub is closed. Together with the people at the hut who had been intending to eat here, plus those in the cars, there would have been 25-30 customers. The spicy cough has wreaked havoc on country hospitality, so hopefully things will be back to normal when you hike!
The rain eases but doesn’t quite stop. We set off along the old railway track. Plant enthusiasts, keep your eyes peeled for very interesting vegetation here in the valley: like cemeteries, railway reserves often contain the only remnant native vegetation in farmland that has otherwise been cleared.
You can see my camera in its ultrasil bag protecting it from rain. You can also see my DCF pack cover, which is not really waterproof any longer after one too many trips. The DCF liner bag inside the pack, however, is still okay. Down sleeping bags are light and compressible, but you must, must MUST keep them dry.
Like the brown boronia from yesterday, Blue Leschenaultia (Leschenaultia biloba) is another famous Western Australian export, and equally fickle to grow. Yet here it is, casually lounging on the roadside.
Sorry about the quality of the image but it’s bucketing and I just took a quick snap. This little National Park is a delight for plant lovers.
A ball of red coral pea (Kennedia coccinea)
Hemigenia sericea
Horn Trigger Plant (Stylidium petiolare)
Cow Kicks (Stylidium schoenoides). The one on the right is triggered, the one top left is not.
Caladenia longiclavata… I think!
You can see the variety in the C. longiclavata species
And here we are at Noggerup Hut. Nestled in a valley overlooking a little creek, it’s very picturesque but it’s wet, wet, wet.
Good campsites as always but the hut is easier with this much rain.
Later, the rain stops for a while and we can eat dinner (Chili Beans) by the fire.
We are sharing the hut with only Pat and Helen, and greatly enjoy their company. They are fascinated by the history of the regions they hike in, and have done some amazing walks across Western Australia as well as overseas.
Other people we’ve met are hiking to challenge themselves, or to gain fitness or lose weight. Some are on the track for mental health reasons, or for personal development, to become stronger and more resilient or self-sufficient. And yet others are on the track to recover from broken relationships, or to mend them. Geoff and I are on the track because we love hiking in nature, because we want to spend time doing something interesting and fun together, but also to some extent in my case, to see whether I can complete a long distance hike.
But your reasons for being on the track don’t matter. Nor does your job (or lack of one), your income, or the suburb in which you live. The track is a great equaliser: you are hiking the track, just like everyone else, and that’s all that matters. What is coming up the next day, what you’re eating for dinner, what the weather will be, whether there are any track diversions: the immediate simplicity of thru hiking.
It’s a wonderful and refreshing thing, to meet people in this way.
