Buttongrass plains, lush rainforest, alpine lakes and rugged tors with views from coast to plateau

view over mountain lakes from Barrons Pass — *Spectacular views between Lake Vera and Tahune*

Lake Tahune with low cloud and mist above — *Lake Tahune, just one of many glorious alpine lakes and tarns you’ll see on this hike*

We acknowledge and respect Tasmanian Aboriginal peoples as the State's first peoples and recognise them as the traditional owners and continuing custodians of the land and waters of this island, lutruwita (Tasmania) on which we work, learn and live.

The Frenchman’s Cap (Trullenneuer) Trail is a world class 46km/28.6mi (23km/14.3mi one way) multiday hike in the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park in the central southwest region of Tasmania. When you ask Tasmanian locals for their favourite trail, many of them will tell you this one tops their list.

It’s an out and return starting from the Franklin Valley and crossing the Franklin and Lodden rivers on fun swing bridges, before traversing buttongrass plains and then climbing through lush rainforest to the high country with rugged tors and second-to-none views across alpine tarns and lakes. In clear weather, the peak offers 360 degree views from the mountains of Cradle Mountain/Lake St Clair in the north, to Macquarie Harbour in the south and the peaks around Queenstown in the west.

Frenchman's Cap locality map — *Frenchman’s Cap with other iconic walk locations nearby such as Cradle Mountain’s Overland Track,* *Walls of Jerusalem, Mt Field, Western Arthurs and the South Coast Track: plenty of opportunities to combine for a four or five week trip of a lifetime!*

When To Hike:

Summer is the best season for leisurely hikers; we walked in January. Check the weather forecast because snow can fall at any time of year including midsummer.

Getting There:

Your Own Car from Mainland Australia: Ferry Fees are expensive so this is only economical if you combine Frenchman’s Cap with other hikes in the region (eg Walls of Jerusalem, Overland Track, Mt Field National Park, South Coast Track). Leave your car at the Trail Head car park on the Lyell highway.

Buses: A community bus service travels along the Lyell Highway and will drop off and pick up from the Trailhead; it takes four hours from Hobart and you won’t reach the trailhead until about lunch time, but is by far the cheapest option. Book your pickup. If you do this as a slower hiker, we recommend you camp at the Loddon River the first night, and travel on to Lake Vera Hut the following day, rather than trying to do the whole distance in one afternoon.

Trail transport companies leaving from either Hobart, Launceston or Devonport will drop you at the Trailhead carpark and pick you up: make sure you book your pickup ahead of time. Prices from Hobart are cheaper with the shorter distance.

Walk Details for Slower Hikers

map of hike with elevation graphs — *46km (28.6 miles) return hike with 2465 metre (8090 ft) elevation gain and loss. The graphs shown here are for the outward journey trip from the trail head to Frenchman’s Cap (ie one way only).*

This walk is so popular not just for its spectacular views, but for the sheer variety packed into such a short distance.

Hiker on single track looking toward Frenchman’s Cap — *Rainforest alternating with button grass and ti tree with views on Day 1*

The 15km/9.3mi first day from the Trailhead to Lake Vera with its buttongrass plains was once a tough slog through thigh and even chest deep bog, but has since been rerouted with significant upgrades: yes, there’s still mud, but the new track means less erosion and environmental impacts, and an easier traverse for hikers.

Don’t be misled by looking at the trailhead elevation of just under 400m and Vera hut elevation of just under 600m: cumulative elevation gain is 700m (2300ft) for the day, and sections of the track are rough and rooty.

hikers sitting on ledge at Baroon Pass looking ahead at lakes far below in wilderness area — *Amazing views on Day Two from Barron Pass*

Day 2 from Lake Vera Hut to Tahune Hut is only 6.6km (4.1mi) but again the distance and even the topographic map give a misleading impression. The section along the lake is not a gentle stroll along a sandy shoreline but continuous 2m-10m (6ft -33ft) ups-and-downs across steep slope; you are rarely on level ground. Slower hikers will need the better part of a day to traverse the rough and rooty track with multiple small ladders and scrambles:

hiker on ladder made from fallen treen — … more fun ladders on Day 2.

Day Three’s 1.4 km (0.89mi) distance (2.8km/1.78mi) return from Tahune Hut to Frenchman’s Cap at 1446m (4744ft) has the most challenging scrambling of the track and slower hikers will probably want a full day; you should have time to do one of the alternate routes too. Fast and experienced hikers may extend their day to Clytemnestra (via a challenging route rather than a track).

hiker wlaking across sloping rock slab with vast views in background — Enjoyable scrambles and fabulous views on Day 3

How to Make this Hike Easier

Although we met several hikers running the entire out and return in a single day, slower hikers will not be doing this! It is a Grade 4 hike, the most difficult hut-to-hut hike in Tasmania, with considerable elevation gain and loss over rough terrain.

signage at trailhead — *Signage states 3-5 days return.*

This hike is technically only booked as a 3 night walk, but we were told this often isn’t the case; some hikers spend multiple days at Tahune Hut waiting for weather to clear. We don’t recommend the latter, but Parks acknowledge 3 days is not the only option because signs and the Parks website classify it as a “3-5 day” hike, and allow only ten bookings per day for Tahune Hut that sleeps twenty four (plus additional tent platforms at both huts). You book starting date only and we strongly encourage slower hikers to adopt our five day itinerary of 5 days and 4 nights:

Day 1: Trailhead to Lake Vera Hut (or tent platform)
Day 2: Lake Vera Hut to Tahune Hut (or tent platform)
Day 3: Tahune Hut to Frenchman’s Cap return, and/or a side trip to Lion’s Head (or the route to Clytemnestra for experienced hikers)
Day 4: Tahune Hut to Lake Vera Hut, with potential side trips to Davern’s Cavern (experienced hikers) or some of the tors around Barron Pass
Day 5: Lake Vera Hut to the Trailhead.

hiker walking across open plateau section — *Spectacular views on the return of one of the spur routes*

If the hut is full and you are spending the second night at Tahune on the way out, etiquette suggests you use your tent on a platform to let others have a turn in the hut. However, a full hut is highly unlikely under the current booking system; we shared the hut with only three or four people each night, and we were hiking in peak season.

The above itinerary gives you plenty of time because, although distances imply an easy hike, this is misleading because of the track’s ruggedness: it is classic SW Tassie track and both overseas and mainland visitors are likely to be surprised by their pace. We encountered several hikers who were struggling and not enjoying their walk because they had been overly ambitious and were hiking to Tahune in a single day. One hiker turned back at Lake Vera Hut and a family decided to stop at Barron Pass and not Tahune.

As always, one of the best ways for slower hikers to comfortably make distances is to start early. If you’re catching a bus or transport to the trailhead and arrive there after mid-morning, consider camping overnight at one of the small campsites near the trailhead, or to split the first day and stay at one of the pleasant sites conveniently halfway on the banks of the Loddon River.

leafy cleared small area for two tents in forest — *One of many pleasant campsites on the banks of the Loddon River.*

There is relatively little exposed scrambling on this trail; less confident hikers may elect to turn back at one spot between Lake Vera and Tahune. It is the only spot like it this day and the trail to the hut is easier after this but, if you do turn back, don’t beat up on yourself because the views from Barron Pass alone are worth the hike, even if you get no further. Barron Pass is a worthy destination in its own right and an out and return from Lake Vera Hut is an excellent option.

hike ron exposed ledge section of track — This looks daunting but is not as tricky or exposed as it appears. This is the toughest short section of just a few metres for those who dislike exposure — once you’re past it, you have clear sailing to Tahune hut.

Slower hikers may arrive at Tahune Hut mid afternoon, and be tempted to continue up to the Cap on the same day, especially if it is clear. If you decide to do this — and most faster hikers do — take a good look at the images of the track in our daily blogs because this day has the most, and most challenging scrambling, of the trail. You do not want to descend in darkness if you find the climb challenging because descents are usually trickier than ascents.

hiker scrambling up rock face — *Straight up to the summit on Day 3*

Water

Campsites and Huts

view inside hut with large communal wooden sleeping benches — *Lake Vera Hut*

Lake Vera Hut is comfortable and Tahune Hut is positively luxurious with passive solar and micro hydro-system power and heating. You can charge devices there too.

inside Tahune Hut looks very comfortable — *Tahune hut: Luuxxuurry!*

The new tent platforms are practical and well-spaced but cold, as are most platforms in such environments. Other campsites exist on bare ground around Lakes Vera and Tahune but choosing these is more impactful on sensitive alpine environments, so please use the platforms. Alpine cushion plants, mosses and grasses are also highly sensitive to compaction and trampling: camp on rock where possible if you are hiking elsewhere in the park.

timber tent platforms and boardwlaks — *Tent platforms at Lake Vera*

small wooden building housing two toilets with verandah — *Loos…*

view of mountains though window — *… with views!*

Safety

Plan your hike well, familiarise yourself with the route, notify someone of your itinerary, carry a first aid kit, tent, PLB, and quality wet weather and insulating clothing including a beanie and gloves. Carry a map (Tasmap 1:50,000) and compass and/or electronic navigation with topographic details with battery backup and redundancy.

hiker filling in details at registration booth — *Geoff signing the walker logbook in the registration booth.*

There is an information booth in the carpark at the trailhead, but record your details in the logbook in the registration booth near the start of the track.

You are hiking in remote terrain with notoriously changeable weather. Bring a tent even when you expect to sleep in the huts: you’ll need one if the hut is full or if you have an accident or injury between huts in bad weather. Hypothermia is a significant risk in this region, not least because blizzards and snow occur even in midsummer.

hiker on boardwalk across button grass — *Cold rain on the way out: 3-layer goretex jacket and two-layer goretex pants.*

Be prepared to turn back or abort the trail beyond Barron Pass in bad weather or if it is forecast: you will be blown off the track in the exposed higher reaches and cloud will almost certainly be so low that you’ll have no views anyway. Also reconsider your hike on days of extreme fire danger: there is no escape route.

Jack Jumper ants have a painful bite and many people develop allergic and even anaphylactic reactions. Avoid disturbing their nests or lingering near them because the soldiers will attack.

ant nest mound next to track through button grass — *Jack Jumper ant nest beside the track*

Swimming in the pristine lakes and rivers is a joy but use common sense: they can be icy and river currents strong. A small swimming hole off a tributary of Lake Vera is easier to access than through the reeds of the lake. Never use soap in any of the lakes or rivers and wipe off insect repellant before entering the water.

Leave No Trace

boot washing station — *Boot cleaning station — remember to spray your trekking pole tips and gaiters too!*

The Park is a fuel stove only region: no campfires.
Use the boot station to clean your boots, gaiters and trekking pole tips to reduce the spread of phytopthera.
Use toilets at the huts where possible. If you pee elsewhere, carry out your toilet paper or use a bidet or Kula cloth, and bury your waste 15-20cm deep and 100m away from watercourses.
Don’t use soap or detergent for dishwashing (just hot water) nor in or near water.
Stay on the track and walk through the middle of any boggy bits rather than skirting the edges and widening the bog. Where there is no track on spur routes, groups should spread out to avoid creating one.

Frenchman’s Cap is an extraordinarily beautiful hike, and a good one to try if you’re up for a hike that is challenging yet within the ability envelope of most fit, well-prepared hikers. Whether you hike to Barron Pass, Lion’s Head or summit the Cap, this trail is guaranteed to create banner memories, those that stay with you for a lifetime. Yes, it’s the most demanding hut-to-hut hike in Tasmania but, with such variety and views not just on the summit but every day, the rewards are rich. With a conservative itinerary, slower hikers will love every minute.

*Barron Pass and Philps Peak, Lakes Millicent, Cecily, Gertrude and Magdalen, and Mt Clytemnestra from the summit.*

Frenchman’s Cap Trail Planning and Tips