A spectacular leisurely circuit hike through snow gum and boulderfields to tarns above the treeline, with views from rocky peaks.

vast view across small tarns in foreground with rugged mountains in background — *Lunch beside the track near The Watcher, with views to Mt Field West*

We acknowledge and respect Tasmanian Aboriginal peoples as the State's first peoples and recognise them as the traditional owners and continuing custodians of the land and waters of this island, lutruwita (Tasmania) on which we work, learn and live.

A Track for Slower Hikers?

Absolutely YES! In good weather and with our relaxed and conservative recommended itinerary for slower hikers, you have a fantastic introduction to Tasmania’s marvellous multiday alpine offerings.

The Mt Field West circuit is an exhilarating three day, two-night hike in Tasmania’s south that packs a huge amount of joy into just 26km (16mi). Slower hikers will traverse the shores of alpine lakes, some with platypus splashing in the shallows, and cross vast scree slopes and fun boulderfields. The route passes through pandani and forest — billy pine and snow gum at altitude — alive with birds, berries and wildflowers. However, a large part of the hike is above the treeline, visiting some of the park’s tallest peaks with distant views in every direction. Here you’ll also find mossy plateaus sprinkled with emerald cushion plants and shining tarns.

small tarn on plateau amongst rocky outcrops — *Along K Col Track*

Founded in 1916, Mount Field National Park and Freycinet NP comprise Tasmania’s oldest National Parks. The area with the waterfalls (Russell, Lady Barron etc) near the entrance of the park has been preserved since1885 and is Tasmania’s oldest reserve. This long history is testament to the sheer beauty of the park, both in summer for hikers, and skiers in winter. The historic huts you’ll pass on this hike are filled with memorabilia and interesting snippets, and were built to protect skiers from wild weather.

locality map Mt Field is 40 kilometres due west of Hobart — *Locality Map*

view inside old disused hut the fire place is full of soot there are old snow skis leaning up against the wall with other memorabilia — *Twilight Tarn Hut*

The park is about an hour’s drive from Hobart, so the waterfall hikes — lush with tree ferns and breathtakingly tall timber — have always been hugely popular and busy (definitely worth a visit before or after your circuit; don’t miss the glow worm cave!). However, the alpine hikes around Lake Dobson are a full 14km (8.7mi) further into the park and receive a fraction of the visitors; we saw only a handful of hikers in peak season, though some might have been scared off by the damp forecast on the first night.

hiker with warm jacket and backpack walking along shore track of lake Dobson — *Setting off alongside Lake Dobson*

Fees and Getting There

Mt Field National Park is 75km (47mi) west of Hobart on the B61 road to Maydena. You can buy a Parks Pass for you or your car ahead of time at the Parks Service Centre in Hobart (134 Macquarie Street,1300 135 513) or online, or pay for it (and your camping fees) at the Visitor Centre at the entrance to the park. If you elect the latter, consider doing this the day before your hike so you can make an early start. There is plenty to see on the short walks around the Visitor Centre, and the terrain and vegetation are completely different to the alpine and montane areas:

Your own/hire car is most convenient, but there is also a bus from Hobart City Interchange Stop A2 to Mount Field National Park via New Norfolk Central and Westerway Roadhouse (2h 35m). Unfortunately, this bus gets you to the waterfalls, but not the start of the alpine hikes. You may be able to hitch the 14km (8.7mi) from the visitor centre.

For those without a car, a better option that takes you all the way to Lake Dobson is to use one or another of the track transfer companies (about $95 pp for a minimum of four people at time of writing; you’ll need to book a return transfer as well).

Lake Seal is fringed with thick vegetation and step sided mountains either side — *Stunning view over Lake Seal, even with low cloud!*

Accommodation

You have plenty of options close to the park if you have a car. Try B&Bs in the local villages of Maydena or Westerway, or the pricier Cottages or Retreat at the entrance of the park. There is also a parks campground near the visitor centre.

An option that might better suit slower hikers bussing it are the comfortable but basic (no showers) government huts just ten minutes walk from Lake Dobson. You could go for an out and return stroll through the Pandani Grove and look for Platypus in the lake on the day you arrive, then head off early on your hike proper the following morning.

View across Lake Dobson from small clearing the lake is fringed with thick forest vegeation — *Lake Dobson*

Food and Supplies

Bring everything with you for before, during and after your hike: there are no supermarkets or delis in the park. The Visitor Centre offers basic meals during the day; sadly, the National Park Hotel, just outside the park, is closed at time of writing. We hope they reopen because they offered outstanding pub grub (carnivores should not miss their steaks!). You’ll also pass quaint cafes offering delicious lunches and breakfasts in nearby towns.

A Slower and More Relaxed Itinerary

Map of National Park with main trails shown — *The Tas Parks Map*

Our recommended itinerary is a three day, two night 26km (16mi) circuit that includes one 3km (1.9mi) out-and-return spur trail and a second 0.4km (0.25mi) spur trail. The total elevation gain and elevation loss is 1150m (3750ft). The daily distances seem short, but you’ll have a lot of scrambly scree and rock-hopping. It’s heaps of fun when you’re not in a hurry, but rushing on such terrain without excellent fitness and agility will not end well. Our itinerary gives you time to enjoy all the terrain, not just the cruisy bits!

Mount Field West Circuit hike map with distances and elevation gains — *Our recommended hike statistics*

We hiked anti-clockwise and recommend this direction because you are climbing through the steepest scree more than you are descending through it (if you find descents easier, hike in the reverse direction).

Our circuit combines part of several walks within the park (Mt Field West, Tarn Shelf, Lake Webster); Alltrails refers to it as the Lake Dobson- Mt Field-Lake Webster loop.

Our recommended leisurely itinerary is:

Day 1: Lake Dobson - Cleme’s Tarn (6.5km/4mi)

Day 2: Cleme’s Tarn- Mt Field West - Cleme’s Tarn - The Watcher - Lake Newdegate - Twisted Tarn - Twilight Tarn (13km/8mi)

Day 3: Twilight Tarn - Lake Webster - Lake Seal - Lake Dobson (6.5km/4mi)

If you arrive early at Clemes Tarn, you could set up the tent and hike your out and return to Mt Field West on the first day rather than the second, thereby shortening your second day and equalising out the distances, so keep this option in mind if you have good weather.

The Tarn Shelf Loop is a shorter and significantly easier circuit hike that lies inside our longer loop. It avoids the scree and has much less elevation gain. In good weather, it is a grand day hike for faster hikers, or an overnighter (stay at Twilight Tarn) for slower hikers, those with children, or those who think the scree might be too challenging for them.

view towards several small tarns on the Tarn Shelf Track — Rather than continuing up and over the scree of Rodney Range on our route, the Tarn Shelf Track is a shorter loop that branches off and follows the eastern (right) edge of the tarns along the shelf at lower elevation.

See our daily blogs (linked individually above, and buttons at end of post) for the details for each day.

When to Hike

Summer is a popular time to hike in the alpine areas of Mt Field National Park, but late spring and autumn can be good too. More important is checking the forecast immediately before your hike, whatever time of year you choose. Ring the Mt Field Visitor Centre for a weather update and have a Plan B ready. A delay isn’t a problem because this hike is not heavily trafficked or with capped numbers, like the Overland Track or Frenchman’s Cap, so you won’t miss out.

Hike Safe

Carry a First Aid Kit and a PLB or Inreach satellite communicator. The hike is not far from Hobart but it’s definitely remote, and you may see no hikers all day on some parts of the alpine tracks. Nowadays some people carry satellite-compatible android or iphones but, in our opinion, this engenders a false sense of security. Phones are far less robust, are easily drained of battery, and have a much poorer signal in forest. You can hire PLBS cheaply from Parks Service Centres in cities or from the Mt Field Visitor Centre.

hiker filling in registration details — *Make sure to sign into the Walker Registration book.*

Resources

Research the track. It’s apparently common to head off in the wrong direction from Peterson Memorial Hut, and many people (ahem) mistake Naturalist Peak for Mt Field West when on the track — it’s more than a kilometre further along!

Purchase the Mt Field Tasmap

Download the Alltrails Route

Download the Avenza Map

Alpine hiking hazard warning sign — Like all alpine regions of Tasmania, conditions in Mt Field National Park can change quickly from warm and sunny to 10C below freezing with windchill, whiteout conditions and extreme winds *even in mid summer.* When we hiked in January, we had to delay our hike for a day because of 100kmph+ winds forecast at elevation.
Regardless of forecast conditions, carry good waterproof and warm clothing and a tent that you’re familiar with.

hiker in full rain gear walking through fog on rocky track — Wearing all our waterproof clothing on Day 1. We experienced driving rain, thick fog and strong wind, and a couple of lads a few hours behind us were forced to take shelter in the emergency hut after they were subjected to a heavy hailstorm on exposed scree. Only moderate winds had been forecast, and light showers.

small emergency hut under clear sunny bright blue sky — *Peterson Memorial Hut in sunshine, 100m away from the previous photo, but on the following day!*
The huts are for day and emergency use only.

signage at start of hike where the track is well maintained for day walkers doing a short walk around Lake Dobson — *A cruisy start at Lake Dobson in the sheltered subalpine forest gives no hint of the exposed terrain at altitude.*

The nearest weather station at Maydena (elev. 281m/922ft) suggests a mean minimum January minimum of 9C (48F). However, at Clemes Tarn (elev. 1201m/3940ft), the mean January minimum is 0C (32F), so you can expect many nights at or below freezing in the hottest month of the year. Tassie alpine summer minimum temperatures are notorious for producing hypothermic hikers, partly because people underestimate how cold it will be (especially when combined with wind), but also because it is a wet cold, where rain invariably drenches inappropriate gear.

small cloth covered with ice — Wiping ice from the inside of our tent at Clemes Tarn early in the morning.

Track Condition

Like most Tassie hikes, you’ll experience a mixture of track conditions from easy boardwalk, to rocky track, to scree and boulderfields that require rock hopping and easy scrambling. Read the daily blogs for plenty of pictures to see whether it’s the right track for you, but here is a taste:

hiker in distance on long section of boardwalk across alpine shelf with numerous small tarns — Easy boardwalk…

clear track through thick forest — Easy track

hiker walking up steep section of rocky track — Rocky track

hiker walking across scree field the scree consists of 1 to 2 foot sized rocks — Scree

hiker clambering through and over boulders — Boulder fields

series of small, interconnected pools within cushion plant plain — Boggy wet track: walk through the bog and water rather than deviating because the cushion plants are extremely sensitive.

Campsites

Your campsites are at Clemes Tarn and Twilight Tarn. Please don’t camp elsewhere at elevation unless hiking offtrack because of those sensitive cushion plants.

small flat cleared area next to tarn with puddles — Don’t bother looking for “better” campsites at Clemes Tarn, because there are none. The obvious ones — about four of them — right beside the tarn are the only ones.

small tent pitched next to Twilight Tarn — At Twilight Tarn, there is one lakeside campsite that you approach from the right in this image but be aware that, despite its appearance, it is extremely exposed to wind, which rotors off the ridge in the background. More sheltered campsites are on a rise amongst the trees to the right:

small cleared campsite fringed by trees — *Twilight Tarn campsite*

Leave No Trace

Twilight Tarn toilet amongst forest vegetation — A very welcome toilet at Twilight Tarn. Phew! There’s also one at Lake Dobson Carpark at the start of your walk, but nothing in between.

small tent pitched next to Clemes Tarn — *Clemes Tarn Campsite*
This is a stunning campsite, but the soil is shallow peaty sod, with the water table just below the surface and rock just below that. Everything drains into the tarn. On the higher elevations nearby, you’re into rock. It simply isn’t possible to dig a hole anywhere, even with a toilet trowel, so we hung on until Twilight Tarn toilet. We treated the water in the crystal-clear-but-certainly-not-pristine Clemes Tarn, and tried not to think what hikers before us might have done.
Happily, there is an answer, especially for regular as clockwork early morning/late evening folk whose bowels dislike deviation:

two smiling park rangers each holding a poo tube — *Poo tubes for the win! (Image Credit: Tasmanian Parks Service).*

A few days after we hiked there was an ABC news article about poo tubes being available from Mt Field Visitor Centre. They weren’t mentioned to us when we discussed our itinerary with the ranger immediately before our hike (perhaps they were not yet available), but having one would have made our hike a helluva lot more comfortable!

You can DIY a poo tube or poo pot, or buy one (pots are better for shorter hikes). Some people use a 2L nalgene bottle or wag bags: there are plenty of options! Buy biodegradable corn starch bags, poo into them, close them up like a doggy bag, and drop into your tube, which then fits neatly in one of the side pockets of your pack. Empty your tube into the next toilet you come to, biodegradable bag and all! Easy peasy!

And of course, people who squat to pee, use a pee rag, or pack out your pee paper in a ziploc bag (burying it isn’t environmentally sound).

Because of course none of us want to wander around these beautiful alpine environments stumbling across pee paper or human turds. Disgusting. So please do your bit: you have no excuse now that you know what the environment around Clemes Tarn is like! Who knows, perhaps in future the water will be clean enough to drink without treating!

hiker in red T shirt walking on stepping stones through cushion plants on alpine shelf with numerous small tarns — With this relaxed itinerary, the Mount Field West Circuit is a fantastic short multiday hike for slower hikers. Highly recommended!

Mt Field West Circuit Hike Planning and Tips