Days 66, 67 & 68: William Bay to Denmark and Rest Days in Denmark
We acknowledge the Nyoongar People as the traditional custodians of the land and waters along the Bibbulmun Track
Another wonderfully varied day with wild seascapes, swamps and mountain views.
Overview map
Use Bibbulmun Track Foundation Map 8: Denmark/Albany
Yay, we’re on the next map! And the Denmark Tavern is beckoning!
Today we head east from William Bay Hut before turning inland and northeast over Mt Hallowell, which is what the Bibbulmun Track does (if there’s a hill nearby, it will go over it!). This is always a little daunting when inspecting the map and elevation profile in the morning, but those apprehensions will be erased when you are enjoying the fantastic vistas from the top! The day finishes along Wilson Inlet, with views over the wind-whipped water.
The day dawns grey and cloudy - it’s going to be another wet one.
Last views of the coastline for a while before we head inland.
A relatively long diversion is in place. Some of it is weedy. Ths orchid, Monadenia bracteata, is an invasive species from South Africa, whose similar climate means many of our worst weeds originate there.
But this exciting orchid discovery is most certainly not a weed: Calochilus uliginosus, the Swamp Beard Orchid. It’s an apt common name, isn’t it?
And a beaut splash of colour in the sandy lowlands, the Albany Cat’s Paw, Anigozanthos preissii
Absolutely fantastic country, entirely different to anything we’ve seen before.
It’s incredibly lush and green and the myrtle (Agonis flexuosa) is in full bloom.
So many contrasts today! And so much fun! The rain truly doesn’t bother us at all.
Zigging out briefly to the coast near Light’s Beach with more crashing waves and dark skies, before zagging inland again.
Over the stile near the foot of Mt Hallowell.
Numerous orchids on the slopes under the karri. Here the Karri spider, Caladenia brownii.
The karri spider is hugely variable and also hybridises readily. Sometimes, it’s hard to tell whether it’s just species variation, or whether it’s hybridisation. This one had particularly long sepals.
This one was held stiffly…
… and this one is very pale. But I had better stop taking pictures, or we will never get over the mountain!
Wait, still time to photograph this beautiful purple pansy orchid, Diuris longifolia.
And, on granite, Thelymitra ‘Southern Granites’ opens in fleeting sunshine.
Don’t miss climbing the monadnocks. The views over the mouth of Wilson Inlet, Nullaki Point and Nullaki Peninsula are fantastic.
Onwards with dense vegetation; it’s rocky underfoot.
Slower hikers will want to take their time over this section. Keep a sharp eye out for the yellow Wauguls on the trees and boulders because there are so many little side tracks where people have taken the wrong path, and it’s so rocky that you often can’t see the track itself.
Further up, we take the side spur to Mt Hallowell Peak, but, unless we missed an extra fork, the vegetation has grown to obscure all views. Oh well, it’s a lovely clearing for a stop and our favourite lunch of dehydrated feta with Geoff’s sourdough crackers. Yum! Geoff made a huge batch and vac-sealed them into portions. And they last and last when vac-packed: extras opened six months after this hike were still as crunchy and delicious as those freshly made.
The boulders are spectacular!
Back we go and, on the way down, there is a better place to relax with excellent views. So, if you’re planning a lunch stop on Mt Hallowell, stop at the other monadnocks or the rock slabs on the northeastern spine on the way down rather than the official peak.
The hike down is steep, rocky, beautiful and fun if you don’t need to rush.
At last we reach the suburbs of Denmark along Wilson Inlet. We still have nearly six kilometres to go before our accommodation, but it’s flat walking now.
Denmark has no Visitor Centre (some dispute between volunteers and staff, we gather, highlighting that you always pay volunteers in the currency of respect) and so weeks ago we left our resupply box - plus thank you beer! - with a Trail Angel who lives on the outskirts. We had planned to get a taxi to pick it up today, but he demurs and kindly drops it at our hotel. This is particularly fantastic as there is no taxi service in Denmark at the time we are there!
The next few days are taken up with FOOD and trying to reorganise transport across Wilson Inlet because the kayak trip fell through at the last minute. Be warned.
But here I am with another Huge Hunk of Meat. The protein cravings are incredible - our bodies certainly tell us what we need. Hence also fresh greens. I’ve ordered more hunks of red meat in pubs in the last two months than I have in the last two decades. And yes, we both entirely clear those huge plates. Astonishing.
Lunch the next day. Surely it’s ridiculous to order another hunk of red meat. So this delicious poke bowl with miso dressing, quinoa, edamame, chickpeas and other Healthy Things. But what’s that on the side of Geoff’s plate?
